The same logic applies to toilets, showerheads, and other fixtures: if the fix costs more than half the price of a new one, replace it.
This is one of the most common questions we get on service calls across Sonoma and Marin County. A homeowner calls about a dripping faucet or a running toilet, and the real question isn't "can you fix it?" — it's "should I fix it or just get a new one?" Here's how we think about it.
The faucet drips from the spout. This is almost always a worn cartridge, washer, or O-ring. It's a 30–60 minute fix and the parts cost $5–$30. If the faucet is in good condition otherwise and you like it, repair is the clear choice.
The handle is stiff or hard to turn. Mineral buildup or a worn cartridge. Cleaning or replacing the cartridge restores normal operation. Common in homes with hard water — which includes much of Sonoma County.
Low water pressure from one faucet. Usually a clogged aerator. Unscrew it, soak in vinegar, and reinstall. If that doesn't fix it, the supply lines or cartridge may need attention — still a repair, not a replacement.
Corrosion at the base or handles. Once corrosion is visible on the exterior, the internal components are typically in worse shape. Corroded faucets are prone to sudden failure — and a faucet that fails while you're not home can mean water damage.
Leaking from multiple points. A single drip is a part. Leaks from the base, the handle, and the spout simultaneously mean the faucet is worn out systemically. Replacing individual parts won't solve the problem for long.
The faucet is 15+ years old. Even well-maintained faucets have a lifespan. Internal valves wear, finishes deteriorate, and replacement parts become harder to find. At 15–20 years, a new faucet is a better investment than nursing an old one.
Parts are discontinued. If the manufacturer no longer makes the cartridge, valve, or handle for your faucet model, repair isn't practical. This is common with builder-grade faucets installed during original construction.
You're remodeling. If you're updating the kitchen or bathroom, new fixtures are part of the project. A 2006 chrome faucet next to new countertops and a modern sink looks out of place — and the old faucet will likely need replacing within a few years anyway.
Toilet runs constantly. The flapper valve (the rubber seal at the bottom of the tank) is worn. It’s a $10 part and a 15-minute fix. This is the single most common toilet repair and it’s almost always worth doing.
Weak flush. Often caused by mineral deposits clogging the rim jets (the small holes under the rim where water enters the bowl). A thorough cleaning restores flush power. If that doesn’t work, the flush valve may need replacement — still a repair.
Handle is loose or doesn’t engage. The lift chain or handle mechanism needs adjustment or replacement. Simple, inexpensive fix.
Cracks in the porcelain. A cracked toilet bowl or tank can’t be reliably repaired. Even hairline cracks can worsen suddenly and cause flooding. Replace it.
Constant repairs. If you’ve replaced the flapper, fill valve, and handle in the last two years and the toilet still has issues, the unit itself is likely the problem. Older toilets with worn internal geometry don’t seal properly regardless of new parts.
It uses more than 1.6 gallons per flush. Toilets manufactured before 1994 use 3.5–7 gallons per flush. Modern toilets use 1.28–1.6 gallons and flush just as effectively. Replacing an old toilet can save a family of four 10,000+ gallons of water per year — that’s real money on your water bill.
Wobbling at the base. A toilet that rocks when you sit on it may have a deteriorated wax ring, a damaged flange, or a cracked base. A wax ring is a repair. A damaged flange or cracked base means replacement.
Showerheads are almost always a replace rather than repair situation. They’re inexpensive ($30–$150 for a quality showerhead), easy to install, and newer models offer better water pressure with less water usage. If yours is calcified, leaking at the connection, or just outdated, swap it.
Shower valves (the mechanism behind the wall that controls temperature and flow) are a different story. Replacing a shower valve means opening the wall, which adds labor and repair cost. If the valve cartridge is available, replacing just the cartridge is the preferred approach. If the valve body itself is corroded or damaged, full replacement is necessary — and it’s worth upgrading to a pressure-balancing or thermostatic valve that prevents scalding.
When you’re on the fence, use this: if the repair costs more than 50% of a new fixture installed, replace it. You get a full warranty, modern efficiency, and years of reliable service instead of extending the life of something that’s already failing.
This is especially true for toilets and faucets where the cost difference between a repair visit and a new fixture installed is often only $100–$200.
We install all major fixture brands — Moen, Delta, Kohler, TOTO, American Standard, and others. We don't push specific brands. We recommend based on your budget, the style of your home, and what we've seen perform well over years of service in North Bay homes.
For toilets, we often recommend TOTO and American Standard for their flush performance and long-term reliability. For faucets, Moen and Delta offer excellent cartridge availability and warranty support — which matters when you need a part in 10 years.
Book a Service with West Coast Plumbing or call (707) 750-9900 today.
Let the local experts handle it. West Coast Plumbing has been serving Sonoma & Marin County homes and businesses with fast, friendly, and reliable service for years. Schedule your Fall Plumbing Checkup today and enjoy a worry-free winter.
